Wednesday, June 3, 2009

MULTAN (The anciant living city)






MULTAN-E-MAA BA JANNAT-E- OULAA BRABAR AST

AAHIsTAH PAA BNEH KEH MALAK SAJDAH MIKUNAND

(AMEER KHUSROO)







A haven of sun, citrus and mango farms,

With clear water richgreen and sunshine.





Multan has been a most important city of Hind and Sindh for a period of about 3000
years. It was strategically placed, on the main trade routes at the confluence the Ravi and Chanab Rivers, It has been a rich and well defended city for thousands of years. In 324 BC the Macedonians under Alexander invaded Multan and, it was here that he was seriously wounded, which caused his death later as he retreated.





"He happened to land on his feet behind a fig tree....He slashed with his sword and hurled any stone that came to hand: the 'Multanis' recoiled as his three attendants leapt down to join him, carrying the sacred shield (Achilles). But Multani skill of archery were his undoing; his helpers were wounded, and an arrow, three feet long, struck him through his corselet into his chest. Wheïn a Multani ran forward to finish him off, Alexander had strength enough to stab his attacker; then he collapsed, spurting blood, beneath the cover of his Trojan shield"



(Robin Lane Fox, Alexander the Great 1973)



" It was the Indus Valley's long bamboo bow which proved a major harassing weapons as it had much longer range than the Greek steel bow. The Sindhis could shoot at the greek boats along the river while staying out of range" Zubair
Multan has been later, part of Great Mauryan Empire. The city was coveted and sacked by white Huns. Xuan Zang, a Budhist pilgrim visited Multan in AD 641, describes the city as an agreeable and prosperous city. He wrote about the fabulous statue of sun god, which was cast in pure gold and ornamented by precious gems. The temple of Pra Halad (the sun temple) was responsible for Multan becoming prosperous centre of pilgrimage. The statue was broken up by different invaders, got repaired and finally destroyed by the emperor Aurangzeb in the 17th century. There are certain localities in Multan which have the word �soorij' as prefix, and there is a miraculous story of bringing the sun near to roast a piece of meat by Shah Shams Tabrez.





Mohammad-bin-Qasim conquered Multan in AD 711. Multan fell to Mahmood of Ghazni, "Before Thatha was added to sooba of Multan it extended in length from Ferozpur, on the present Sutleg to Siwistan (Sehwan) four hundred and three kos, and in breadth from Sitpur to Jaisalmir, one hundred and twenty-six kos. After Thatha was added thereunto, it extended to Kich and Makran.... On the east it adjoined the sarkar of Sarhind, on the north to Peshawer, on the south to sooba of Ajmir and on the west Kich and Makran.... Thatha now forms the forth sarkar of the Multan sooba". (Raverty). The city fell to Nadir Shah in AD 1739 and Ahmad Shah Abdali in AD1752. in AD1005. Syed Ali Hijve (Data Ganj Bakhsh) in his famous book "Kashf-al-Mahjoob" describes Lahore as a suburb of Multan. In 13th century holy men from all over the Muslim world, harassed by Mangols, flocked here and Multan become an influential political, religious and cultural centre. Temoor Ling (Tamer lane) took Multan in AD 1338. The Langahs ruled Multan as an independent state for four generations. The ancient boundaries of sooba of Multan as recorded in Aaeen-e-Akbari





The tragic siege of Multan commenced in 1818, when Sikh forces captured Multan. Multanis fought bravely but the Sikh army had better Artillery. The valiant Nawab of Multan Muzaffer Khan Shaheed, along with his sons and daughter was martyred fighting against the Sikhs. Sawan Mal and Moolraj ruled Multan as Sikh governors.



On the eve of second Sikh War in1948 AD, William Anderson and Alexander vans were sent to Multan to negotiate a settlement with Mulraj and were murdered. A sand stone obelisk stands 50 meters high on fort mound marking their graves in inscribed,



"...Wounded and forsaken



They could offer no resistance,



But hand in hand calmly awaited




The onset of the assailants..."



Herbert Edwards assembled a force of Multani Pathans and captures Multan in 1849. The famous monuments of Multan are; Tomb of Rukn-e-Alam, Tomb of Baha-ud-Din Zakria, Tomb of Shah Shams Tabrez, Ali Muhammad Mosque, Phulhattan Mosque, Savi Mosque, Eidgah Mosque, Tomb of Syed Yousif Gerdazi, Tomb of Abdul Jalil, Tomb of Ali Akbar, Tomb of Baba Khwaja Awais and Tomb of Bibi Pak Daman.



Sun Temple


Hindus ruled over Multan for a thousand years or so. They might have built many buildings or edifices, may be of great interest and importance but it appears that almost all of these edifices might have been destroyed during the battles fought latter on. There are, however, three places of considerable antiquity of that period references of which are found in many books and travelogues. The most important place of the Hindu period was the "Sun Mandir" It was the most acknowledged worship place throughout the sub-continent as referred to in many books. It was situated on the old Fort Mound. Abu Rehan's story regarding the discovery of the gold based on the writings of Ali bin Mohammad Abu Mohammed Hindui is reproduced asunder:"Mohammad Qasim arose, and, with his generals, courtiers, guards and attendants, went into the temple, where he beheld an idol made of pure gold, its two eyes being of bright red rubies Mohammad Qasim, mistaking the idol for a man, drew his sword, intending to severe the head from the body; but the Brahmans, prostrating themselves before the conqueror, exclaimed: "O true Commander, this is the image which was made by Jibawaii, King of Multan, who concealed beneath it, in a reservoir. a treasure exceeding all limits and computation, and then departed". The Arab general thereupon ordered the idol to be removed, and an underground chamber was discovered , in which were found two hundred and thirty maunds of gold and forty huge jars filled with gold dust. On enquiring the cause of the great wealth of the city and the flourishing condition of its Mohammad Qasim was informed that it was due to the offerings made to the idol, which were brought from all parts of India. Al-Masudi, of Baghdad, who visited the valley of the Indus in 303 A.H. (915 AD), and wrote his much admired work "The Meadows of Gold", about the year 330 A. H. (942 AD), has left us a glowing account of the condition of Islam in South Asia in the beginning of the tenth century.Speaking the idol, AI-Masudi says: "People living in the distant parts of Sind and Hind travel to it to perform pilgrimage, and, in fulfillment of their vows and religious obligations, they make offerings of money, precious stones, perfumes of every kind, and aloe wood before it. The sovereign of Multan derives the principal part of his revenues from the valuable offerings made to the idol. When the faithful are harassed by the unbelievers marching against Multan, they bring out the idol and threaten to break it in pieces, or reduce it to ashes, and the assailants are thus ind duced to withdraw forth with "Istakhri recorded about the idol "Multan as being held in great veneration by the Hindus, who flock to it from all parts of India on religious pilgrimages, and make large offerings which are spent on the temple and its devotees. The temple of the idol is about 300 feet high, is spoken of as a strongly built edifice, situated in the market, the most thickly populated part of the town, between the streets of the ivory dealers and coppersmiths quarters. the idol, stood in the centre of the building under a cupola, around which lived the ministering priests and worshippers. It was set on a platform of brickwork, and was made of wood (no longer of gold, be it observed) in human shape, covered with red Cordova leather, and seated with the legs bent in quadrangular posture, the hands resting on the knees with the fingers all closed. Its two eyes of two red rubies, and its head was surmounted with a golden crown.


Soorij Kund


Another place was�Suraj Kund" (the pool of sun). It is about five miles to the South of Multan on the Bahawaipur Road. It was a place of great antiquity with the Hindus. It was a pond 132 feet in diameter and 10 feet deep when full of water. Sawn Mal, the Sikh Diwan surrounded 'it with an octagonal wall .lt was a place of pilgrimage till 1 947 and two fairs were held here annually. One on the 7th of the Vanishing moon of Bhadon, and the other on the 7th of the rising moon of Magh, the numbers having references to the seven hours of the Sun's Chariot, according to the Hindu mythology or the seven Rishies. According to the Hindu Pur-ans the Sun God (Suraj Devta) manifested here and had declared that whosoever shall bath in this tank, his sins will be forgiven and he will be benefited both in in this world and in the next. It is a neglected place now as it has lost all its charm. Third place, a shadow of which can be seen even today is the Mandir Parhahadpuri.



Shrines

The devastation of Khorasan and Western Iran, by Magol hords led to the settling in this city of a large number of pious and learned men and noble families like Gardezi Syeds and Qureshis from Khawarizm, amongst whom Sheikh Bahauddin Zakaria is a famous saint. About the same time Pir Shams Tabrez from Sabzwar and Kazi Qutubuddin from Kashan came to Multan. Baba Farid Shakar Ganj settled in Pakpattan. Khawaja Qutubaddin Bakhatair Kaki passed through to Delhi and Syed Jalal, the spiritual leader of many family in Multan, Muzafargarh and Bahawalpur, came to Uch, Sultan Sakhi Sarwar's father also emigrated from Bokhara to Sakot in Multan district. These venerable men contributed greatly to spreading Islam in this area. the saints and shrines of Multan have been attracting a large number of devotees all the year round. The shrines of one of the foremost scholars of Islam, Shaikh Bahauddin Zakaria is located in the fort. The Mausoleum was built by the saint himself. It has a unique style of architecture of that period, the mausoleum of Shah Rukn-e-Alam, the grandson of Sahikh Bahauddin Zakaria, is also located near the main gate of the Multan Fort. He was also a man of great religious and political influence.Besides its religious importance, the Mausoleum has a unique architectural value. Its dome is considered to be the second largest in the world after "Gol Gumbad" of Bijapur, India. The mausoleum has very rich geometrical patterns, calligraphy and colourful floral, mosaic and glazed tile work. The mausoleum has recently been given the Agha Khan Award for the best Muslim Architecture. The shrine is visited by devotees all the year round. The shrine of Hazrat Shams Sabzwari is located near Aamkhas Garden. Other shrines in Multan include that of Muhammad Yousaf Gardezi near Bohar Gate, Musa Pak. Shaheed inside the Pak. Gate, Total Mai near Haram Gate, Shah Ali Akbar, a descendant of Shah Shams Sabzwari, in Surajmiani and Bab Sarfa near Eidgah.Tomb of Rukn-e-Alam was built during 1320-24. It is a massive octagonal structure, 25.5 meters in diameter and 35 meters high. A striking feature of its elevation is the effect of its sloping sides, which have been emphasised by addition of turrets or minarets at each angle of the building. The hemispherical dome at the roof of the mausoleum is a superstructure about 18 meters in diameter. Although of bricks foundation, the building has been elaborately ornamented in dark blue, white and azure tiles. Bands of carved timbering have also been sunk into the walls at appropriate intervals to enhance the beauty.



Over the last two centuries Multan has devolved as the centre of the hides and skin trade in the subcontinent, and since Partition it has become the major cotton producing region of Pakistan. Spinning and weaving of both cotton and wool and the making of hand-knotted carpets are now imported industries. Multan has yet to gain its old status of a metropolis of central Pakistan

Monday, June 1, 2009

A city of home of textile manufacturing




A city of monuments, Multan has been around for centuries. History of Multan dates back to ancient times. As per the legend, its origin is assigned to the time of Hazrat Noah (A S). Under the various Hellenic forms of ancient designations (Kasyapapura, Kashtpur, Hanspur, Bagpur and Mulasthan) Multan figures into works of Hecataeus, Herodotus and Ptolemy. It has been an empire, a kingdom, a province, a state, a capital and now a divisional headquarters. Thousands years after Macedonians, the conquerors of Multan present an amazing variety of races: Graeco-Bactrians are followed by the Kushans who in turn give place to White Hans. The Arab first arrived here in 662 A.D. and it came under Muslims rule in around 712. Multan also remained under Karmatians, Lodhis, and Ghaznivids. Between 1221 and 1528, ten invaders swept through the city till it finally fell in the hands of Mughals in 1528. Under the Mughal rulers, Multan enjoyed years of peace and prosperity. Nawab Muzzafar Khan remained in power from 1779 to 1818, when Ranjit Sing stormed the city. After a resolute defense, British captured Multan on 22 January 1849. From Alexander to Aurangzeb the city was built, damaged, repaired, destroyed, demolished, and reconstructed many times. After the British rule, partition once again changed the face of the city and it witnessed the new demographic and socio-economic order in 1947. Multan has been reinventing itself ever since.




Multan 1895


Today, there are 'two' Multans. One is the city of inordinate glory and unique architectural style: imposing citadel, Agha Khan International Architecture Award winner Shrine of Saint Shah Rukn-i-Alam and shrines of Bahawal Haq Zikaryya, (also many other shrines of religious, architectural, and historic values) and landmarks like the newly constructed building of State Bank of Pakistan. It is a city of calligraphers, Textile Manufacturers, writers, poets, actors and actresses who make difference in the lives and outlooks of others. The other Multan is a soot-choked city (spread over 50 square kilometers area) developed haphazardly without any planning and foresight. This is a city where old trees are ruthlessly cut and all the open spaces have been converted in jungle of concrete in the last 58 years.
The walled city - one of the living examples of old Muslim urbanization in the world - is crumbling. Refuse is everywhere, the air thick with flies. Electric connections are loose and dangerous wires are hanging about. The narrow streets are dark at night. As you roam about in the old city called androon shehr, you will see aged palace-like havellies, shrines, remains of defensive walls, historic gateways, and mosques in the most unexpected places. That is Multan's charm. There are probably more heritage sites in Multan than in all of Pakistan, which is why this city should be recognized by UNESCO as a "World City of Heritage".
Three severing historic gates (Haram, Delhi, and Bohar gates), Hussain Agahi entrance, Khooni Burg (bloody tower), remains of the wall, and Alang (ring road) around the medieval Old City are crowded with stalls and cubbyhole shops and rehriwalas. As per an estimate, there are about 40,000 venders working in every nook and corner of the city selling every thing from Nali Nihari to new carpets.
Keeping part of its historical and cultural heritage in tact, Multan has accepted the modern trends. People still like to eat Doli Roti, Daal Mong served on tree leaves, specially cooked Sohanjna (curry) and Tabakhi ke Bor (curry). Word is out and it says that a food street (like Gawalmandi in Lahore) is being planned near Hussain Agahi where conventional Multani food will be served. Needlework on Dopatta (head scarf for women), golden work on Khussa (sandals), and items made of clay and camel skins and Sohan Halwa are very popular. At the same time the blue pottery, glazed tiles, cotton sheets, bed spreads, and towels of Multan are in great demand in Pakistan and abroad. Historian Al Masudi wrote, "Multan is a gold mine" and Dr. Karim Dad says, "Multan is a cotton mine with 50,000 power looms (dobby, Jacquard and Shuttles, Air Jet Looms) manufacturing as well as exporting 100% cotton yarn dyed / White home textiles and madups well known as napkins, kitchen towels, oven gloves, dusters, Monocheck tea towels, institutional draw sheets, logo checks, Embroidered napkins, hospital sheets, draw sheets, table cloths, table napkins, damask fabrics and Upholstery, ." Gard, Garma, Gada and Goristan are no longer the gifts of Multan.





A Cotton Field


The last thing on the minds of city planners is preservation of Multan's old and legendary heritage. Historic buildings disappear without regret and even the protected monuments are suffering from vandalism. Only 24 historic monuments have protected status in the city. Whereas at least 131 sites of intrinsic and irreplaceable value have been recommended to be protected by Gilmore Hanket Kirke Limited, London based architects, engineers and planning consultants firm who carried out a survey of the city, in cooperation with the World Bank, a decade ago. The list does not include historic houses, narrow streets and engraved 'jarokee' and bay windows - being eaten by termites - inside the walled city that are a vital and living part of present Multan.


The services of the Corporation and other city development agencies are barely visible in the city. Multan Development Authority, since inception, has hardly been able to do any thing evident in 362 square kilometers area of jurisdiction. A cricket stadium with seating capacity of 18,000 built in Qasim Bagh, 50 feet above city level, was declared unfit for international cricket in 1984 and construction of the stadium inside the cluster of historic monuments, shrines of Shah Rukn-e-Alam, Bahawal Haq Zakaria and Nawab Muzzafar Khan, memorial Obelisk, Barood Kana, Damdama, and Babe Qasim, has been a classic example of ignorance of city planners about our heritage conservation.


During the last days of Tughlaqs, when the whole of their empire was in pieces, Multanis selected Shah Yousaf Gardezi, a religious leader and a saint, to run the affairs of the city. If nothing else, the governance of the city should be improved for the saint's sake whose shrine - a unique specimen of architecture - is venerated by many in the Old City.


Multan is rich in both history and archaeology that make for good tourism. In this age when the word tourism is top most industry, Multan could still be a tourist's paradise. You can see road in the cantonment and the other (Fertilizer Factory) end of city through Airport, Shah Rukne Alam colony, Sadar, Abdali Road, Khanewal Road, touching Bahaudin Zikria University, Qila Kohna and walled city on the way. The encroachments and other bottlenecks could be removed from the road. "It should be called Nawab Muzaffar Khan Road after the name of a lieutenant of Liberty from Multan," says Professor Atta Ur Rehman Khan.


Not withstanding the aforesaid and other typical misdemeanors, I shall still adore preserving the gard (dust) of Multan with Seraiki speaking, passionate and full of love Multani People